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thanks...

By looking in the service manual we get : F606Y8X00CP H.V.INVERTER (U) This should be a good number, this board seem to be used in a few similar models. Hope it works for you....

If the magnetron housing is isolated from the unit and there is one of the side that makes contact with the case, there is most likely a problem with this magnetron. Look out on Ali express or Ebay using the number on the unit, you should find something in the 30 to 50 USD range. look out for burnt windings on the High Voltage coil or anything wrong ont the HV board... Let me know how it turns out...

thanks for your nice comment, glad it helped you... 🙂🙂

It's always safer to discharge those capscitors, the best way to procede is to get an appropriate resistor and a wire with aligator clips, you clip one end with the resistor to ground or one lead of the capacitor and with the other end you touch the other end. Avoid touching with both hands or making a part with 2 opposite body parts.....

Thank you Pierre for the reply. Are the capacitors easy visible? . I was told it was near the green part of the Inverter board. I only saw a picture so far. I haven't seen the real one yet. Many thanks for the reply.​@@pierresgarage2687

As I remember they are quite easy to reach, if an aligator clip doesn't do it you can use meeter probes with a needle point to get the same result, after discharge use the meter to check for residual voltage, though, be careful with the kilovolts rated parts not to overload you meter's capacity. If you're not rxperienced with electric circuits and electronics, be really careful not to cause yourself injuries...

You're right about the .025 ohms resistor for th e half horse motor. I'm reading the same as you... 👍 Thanks for viewing and for comment, Pierre

Nope...!!! 😉

Thaks for your comment I'm glad the video helped you diagnose and fix your problem..... 😉👍👍

I ended up cleaning mine up and it didn't take much oil at all. When re-assembling, if you're having problem lining up the bottle jack part into the main assembly, you can lift up on the saddle and that will change the length of the whole assembly and make lining up a lot easier.

About the tubes, depending on how much of a dent there is, you can possibly reshape or lightly rebore it and/or lap the cylinders. If the dammage is too extensive and if you want looking like new part just be aware that you can order brand new parts from Starrett or some distributor, that is also true for he vial either alone or installed in the tubes. Let me kno how you managed and thanks for viewing

Ok, great info, didn't realize a tube was replaceable ​@@pierresgarage2687

Thanks for your comment... 😉

Hi Pete, I'm in the same place, nothing much except maybe not being active on RUclips, a little before the pandemy both my parents were needing quite a lot of care before they passed away, this required lots of energy and kept me from producing content, then, the pandemy hit, with all the restrictions and the stress generated, all that kinda drained my motivation and stenght. I could produce some very occasional content later, but, nothing in the pipeline for the moment.... I hope that you're also doing great ant thanks for your inquiry, Pierre

Oh...! That's a good one...! First thing that came to me is that there is a possibility of a stuck button or something of the kind, looks like the logic control board is always on. Not much else i can suggest without more probing, let me know if you can determine if the command signal is active on the output of the main board with the buttons.

@@pierresgarage2687 Yes, you are right! and my problem is fixed. It was one of the Relays that got stuck and with the help of a screw driver it is working. Basically, using the plastic handle of a screw driver and tapping the casing of the relay several times. It is unstuck and working normal now. Once again, thanks for your great help and it was extremely helpful to resolve my issue. Cheers.

Glag it helped...🙂

Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for your comment... 🙂

You're right about what you say, there is a slight difference as the temperature rises, not a huge difference but it would'nt pass a severe control procedure with tight tolerences. For the purpose of this video it was'nt a problem as to prove the concept... Thanks for viewing and for your comment.... 🙂

You're welcome and thanks for your comment...

Bem-vindo... 😉😉

No problem using a battery, just use the prescribed voltage required by the LED you have on hand. This doesn't draw very much current so you will have a decent autonomy in the field... Thanks for watching and for your inquiry. 🙂🙂

It's been a while and everything is still going good... Leather is quite a tough material. Thanks for your comment... 🙂

if you're talking about the round gauge on the shelf of the white board, this was from a short run done by Bruce Whitham an australian RUclipsr, unfortunately, I'm not able to guide you to a source one of those. Anyway, thanks for viewing and for your inquiry...

glad you enjoyed and thanks for your comment... 🙂

Hi Meocats, we're still alive and well, we're not active on the Tube, though.... Hope you're also doing well... Thabks for the short visit..... 😊

Thanks for the sub, hope you enjoy the content.... 🙂🙂

Lots of things Pierre can make if he gets motivated... 😂😉

Hi, thanks for visiting and for the comment... 🙂🙂 I'm following your channel and noticed you purchased a lathe for your shop, if you need anything just Email me and I'll be glad to help. wledpierre@gmail.com Make sure your title is clear and if no response just follow up to make certain your mail wasen't automaticaly trashed. Pierre

@@pierresgarage2687 Yes I bought the Craftex cx-709 from Busy Bee. I'm just an amateur lol. I'm buying a lot of carbide cutters and holders from Aliexpress, so far so good.

As a general rule, you buy the metrology equipments you need to achieve the required tolerances on the parts you produce. broader tolerances are quite easy to control with cheaper but reliable caliper, as tight tolerance will require a well calibrated brand name micrometer or even more for like space ship parts... 👍👍🙂🙂

thank you for your comment.... 🙂🙂

I don't know if you're familiar with machining modes, but, to make it as short as possible, there are two modes to consider in this operation. conventionlal milling or climb milling, in the video I'm using conventional milling, meaning that the rotation of the cutter won't pull the part into itself. This is mainly to avoid that the backlash isn't gonna be a issue and cause the tool to get a huge bite and break. To use climb milling safely you need a very rigid machine with a lead screews with virtualy no backlash. The bigger the diameter of the tool the more risk to use climb milling gets. Let me knowif it's clear for you....

In Canada we're now using the metric system on most everything, but, when I was learning we used the imperial system, it really takes a long time to convert our mind to another system. Now, I can quite figure metric dimensions when working, it's still more difficult to directly work using the metric system... 😥

@@pierresgarage2687 i understand 👍

Hi Gary, Thanks for your comment and enjoy your retirement....

I've never tried with rods bigger than 5/32", it would require at least 1/4" rods, my favorite rod is the 7018, just a little inconvenient on the restarts, though, it produces nice clean beads with easy slag removal...

@@pierresgarage2687 I share your love of 7018 (except restarts). I just love the fast freeze and deep penetration of 6010, plus it seems a bit more challenging to use, which is both frustrating and rewarding.

Bonjour Alain, Merci pour le commentaire, ça fait toujours plaisir d'entendre que le travail que demande une video qui se veut instructive soit apprécié par des auditeurs tel que vous.... J,espère que vous réussirez à remettre votre micro-onde en marche... 👍👍